Overhanging the caravan road to Kargil, among dozens chortens, the monastery of Lamayuru rises on a spur of rock.
An ancient legend narrates that here there was a lake where lived by the mythical Nagas: the snake men, when a wise lama evoked supernatural strengths to dry up the lake prophesying the foundation of a monastery. The seeds of wheat that he had offered to the lake, returned to shore and grew in a form of a swastika, from which the name Lamayuru (the swastika of the lama).
Similar legends on the Nagas are reported on the origin of the valleys of the Kashmir and Kathmandu.
The foundation of the monastery is attributed to Naropa that sojourned here in a cave in hermitage.
|
Lamayuru monastery
|
As soon as we enter in the complex, we find on the left the Chinrest lhakang, the temple is dedicated to Avalokiteshvara, its great effigy is surrounded by other eight Bodhisattvas and by small chortens originally made of silver.
We climb the steps of the main building portico, decorated with the usual four keepers and we enter the dukang Chenmo, the main room of cult, under restoration, with brilliant paintings and new tangka on the walls. On the right a small cave in the wall is known as the 'hermitage of meditation of Naropa', and contains the statue of the saint and that of Milarepa. On the background wall a door gives access to a small chapel. Here in a great showcase there are statues of numerous divinities and Rimpoches.
Lamayuru monastery |
|
Following a narrow and precarious path, between old and decaying bulidigs, we go down to the Singe-Kang. The chapel is devoted to the Supreme Buddha Vairocana. Vairocana is represented sat down on a throne by the form of lion (from here the name of 'temple of the lion'); a garuda, mythical Hindu half man half bird and a couple of makar, sea monsters, form the aureole of the divinity. On the walls frescos of Avalokiteshvara with eleven heads, and a mandala with Vairocana.
|
Lamayuru monastery
|
To the right we enter a second gonkang with tutelary divinities: three interesting impressive sculptures in clay of Mahabal Bhattazaka, Mahakali and Sambhara. In the dim light of the candles: horrid semblances, gnashing faces, frantic eyes, horns and sabres, these are the dharmapalas, the defenders of the law. On the walls of the chapel some skeletons are painted, they are the 'keepers of the cemeteries'.
Lamayuru monastery |
|
Unfortunately inside the complex new buildings are being built that they will deface forever soon the magic of this place.
|
Lamayuru monastery
|
|
|
|
