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Colca Cañyon

3-day hike (difficult) in Colca Cañyon

First day – We leaved Arequipa in the afternoon with a local bus booked for us by the agency. Soon we started to cross a dry, rocky, and desolate land. We arrived in Chivay in the night and continued two more hours to Cabanaconde at the end of the main (dirt) road that runs along the canyon. We arrived late in the night after a strenuous bus ride.
Second day - The tranquil unspoiled town of Cabanaconde 3,287masl, much higher than Arequipa (2,230masl) surrounded by green stepped hills, dirt streets filled with donkeys, sheep and local women wearing the embroidered typical dress (two skirts, vest, hat), a coloured juxtaposition in such desert like place. Cabanoconde, which marks the start of the Cabana lands, has an imposing colonial church, San Pedro Alcántara, a construction built in the eighteenth century with two bell towers decorated with haut-relief images of the sun, the moon and the stars. It stands out for its neoclassical doorways and the Inca-inspired atrium wall.
In the morning we met our guide, a young boy of Cabanaconde now living in Arequipa. We started the walk descending 1,300 metres down the side of the canyon on a very impressive trail, giving fine views of the river and the mountains. The rock strata passed while descending are very impressive. The walk down takes about 1½ to 2 hours, and is straightforward; the path has some very steep sections and many switchbacks. The descent was long, but relatively easy.
The bottom of the canyon is absolutely beautiful and isolated. Along the way we see only two other hikers. We crossed the river on a rickety but safe bridge, and headed up the other side till Lahuar lodge where we stopped for the night. Lahuar is very simple without electricity and few mud walled huts in little green terraces just above the river, with thatched roof, dirt floor and beds made out of mud-brick. After a nice bath in the nearby hot springs I joined our guide in the fishing of the trout’s of the river (actually our diner), a very nice experience, the fishing was rich and we had the tasty trout’s fried for the evening lunch.

Colca canyon

the bottom of the canyon is absolutely isolated

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Colca Canyon Peru stock photographs

Third day - Mid-day in the Colca Canyon, only mad dogs and gringos are on the trail, the only shade available was that of the stones along the path. Finally we started our final descent to the Oasis, The Oasis itself is a green spot next to the river with palm trees and fruit plantations and it is very attractive. The reds, yellows, oranges, browns and greys of the surrounding cliffs make a pretty contrast to the vegetation and the river. Most people come here to relax, and the climate at an altitude less than 2,000masl is far more pleasant than the top of the canyon. The place we are going to stay offers accommodation in basic huts made from palm leaves and a swimming pool. We spent the afternoon swimming in the pool with hot spring water. Other groups arrived during the afternoon. We spent the night sleeping out in the green grass rather than on the dusty bed of the hut, falling asleep looking at the beautiful milky way of the southern hemisphere.

Colca canyon

Trekking the world deepest canyon of Colca in the Arequipa region.

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Fourth day - At 2:45 am we took off for the final leg: a 3hr uphill walk that goes straight up to Cabanaconde, rising over 1200 m in altitude. We reached the top of the canyon before sunrise, the drop of the temperature was incredible, the temperature at canyon ridge at that time of the morning was below zero with all the water frozen in the terraces.
We then caught the first bus to the Cruz del Condor. Here we had the chance to see these beautiful birds at close range, eye level or from above with the river running 1200 m below. This is a unique experience, this is likely the best place in the world to see condors. Condors, majestic scavengers, were considered gods in the Inca cosmology -- the spirit of the air. Early each morning Andean condors leave their nesting areas in the Colca Canyon to begin their daily flights in search of food. After few minutes they started to soar above the majestic canyon, I could count at least 14 birds contemporaneously. Our suggestion is to stay as long as you can because the condors tend to group together late in the morning.
A second bus ride took us to Chivay. The entire canyon rim between Cabanaconde and Chivay is fascinating. Here the valley open up showing the best views of the terraced riverbanks. After passing a couple of villages we arrived in the afternoon at Chivay. We visited the baños termales de la Calera (thermal springs), where we enjoyed the warm water bath under a deep blue sky, and a pisco cocktail. During the 160 km return trip to Arequipa we admired from the bus window the lovely scenery with herds of llamas against the background of the volcanoes, is the Aguadas Blancas Reserve, a protected area for vicuñas (the graceful relative of llamas and alpacas).
We definitely needed more than three days to visit this beautiful part of the world.

Colca canyon

descent to the Oasis

This and more photographs can be found at:

Traveller Dreams

Colca Canyon Peru stock photographs

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Colca canyon

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Colca canyon

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