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| The Way of the White Clouds |
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By 6 a.m we set on the road. At the big crossroad of Karu there is the deviation for the Sakti valley. Soon on the left we see the picturesque Chemrey Gompa. From Sakti village the gradual incline begins crossing the mountains at Chang-la (5.300 m), the 3rd highest pass in the world. There is a temple at the top of the Changla and lots of prayer flags. After the pass, the road enters the "Chang-Tang" plateau. Nomads graze their Yaks at a distance.
At these heights in winter the life is impossible, but also in summer we met only army posts, grazing yaks and "dumka" the road workers. These lands are without meaningful settlement, except for rare groups of nomadic Chang-Pas, one of the ethnic minorities that in summer mainly reside in tents near to the water breeding pashmina goats.
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Pangkong lake
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We breathe the spirit of loneliness and religiousness in the many chortens built to the edges of the roads and on top of the mountain passes, in the mani cairns, piles of hand engraved stones with verses or sacred figures and in the prayer flags.
The road in bad condition now descents following an old caravan route. We cross Durbuk village followed by Tangse both with army stations.
Tangtse is the last post before we reach the great sea water Pangkong lake.
Pangkong lake |
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Nestled among soft rising mountains at 4300 m, only a quarter of the 40mile long lake lies in India and the rest lies in China.
The air is incredibly pure. The water has shades of deep blue surrounded by multicoloured mountains.
The lake is a very important resting place for migratory birds on their way crossing the Himalaya.
At the lake shore there is only a local teashop, the only sign of civilization here.
A narrow 7 km long road continue along the southern shore till Spagmik the farthest point up to which foreigners are permitted.
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Pangkong lake
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