On an artery of the old Silk Route, nested in one of the side valleys of the Indo valley among arid mountains, Leh is dominated by the white dome of the Shanti Stupa and by the ruins of the royal Palace, once residence of the royal family of Ladakh. It is a dusty and chaotic little town. The old city, to the feet of the Namgyal Hill, is a labyrinth of lanes and mud houses surrounded by the new buildings, mostly hotels and shops for tourists. The built areas are increasing and, because of the growth of the town, the fields of this small valley are now disappearing, with the effect that the population is now more dependent on importation from India and Kashmir.
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Leh has always been the crossroad for the commercial traffics through the 'Rotang Pass' and the Karakorum corridor from India reached the plains of central Asia and Tibet. Until 1930 the Ladakhi have been mainly traders and pony-men on the trans-Himalayan caravan routes that used to stop in Bazaar Road. Today after the China war the main commerce is limited to the supply of goods for the numerous military fields displaced in the whole region and for the restaurants and hotels. This is resulting in a loss of cultural identity of the population. The main streets 'Fort Road' and the ancient 'Main Bazaar Road' today are an enormous bazaar mainly for the tourists, and many hotels and other restaurants are being constructed. Hundreds of trucks, vans and jeeps cross every moment the city leaving behind big clouds of dust and smoke.
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The Soma Gompa in the city centre (1957) built to commemorate 2500 years of Buddhism. The Jama Masjid mosque situated in the heart of the town it was built in 1666-67 A.D. The ground floor is occupied by shops that testify the merchant traditions of the Muslim community.
The 9-storey Leh Palace (xvi c) resembles a miniature version of the Potala, with narrow corridors and tiny windows. Atop the crag behind Leh palace the Tsemo (red) Gompa, near the monastery there is an old fort, now in ruins (nice views of Leh).
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Reached with a nice walk through the field at the northern end of the town, the Sankar Gompa a small Gelukpa monastery (Yellow Hat). At the entrance veranda the paintings of the Guardian of the Four Directions and on the left wall the 'Wheel of Life', held by Yama. Inside the Dukhang, some relatively new paintings of various Buddha. On the right of the throne there is an image of Avalokitesvara with 1000 arms and 11 heads.
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