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Indus Valley - from Leh to Hemis Gompa |
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After Cloglamsar, an important centre for Tibetan refugees, a diversion to the right leads to an iron bridge that crosses the Indus, in few minutes the valley of Stok is reached, an immense alluvial fan where the Stok royal palace rises. Built in 1825 it is the last residence of the ladakhis sovereigns. Its architecture recalls that of the palace of Leh, while the Leh palace falls in ruins, this it is well preserved. There is a small museum with many interesting tangkas and articles of Ladakhi heritage on display, a dozen of rooms form the apartment of the royal family that from time to time sojourns still here, while other rooms are occupied by the monks of the temple that it is found to the last floor.
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Stok Palace
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Following upstream the Indus along its left shore we come in the high green side valley where the small village of Matho is found. The monastery is of the order Sakya (xv c.) in the dark Gonkang you can see the ritual masks used by the oracles in trance. On the inner courtyard there is the Dukhang, with at the entrance the usual paintings of the Guardians of the Four Directions at the entrance.
Matho Gompa |
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Going back to the right shore of the Indus, on a hill of white crystalline rocks (from where the name of 'crystal' Shel), the Shey palace, once the residence of the ladakhi royal family (xv c.), stands out above the plain. It remains very little of the fortress, but it is possible to visit the Sakia Thupa Lhakang formed by a great chapel with two entrances (one per floor) with a 7.5 m high gold plated copper statue of Buddha Sakyamuni.
Soon after an exceptional site with more than 100 white washed chortens.
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Shey Palace
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Tiksey (xv c.) is one of the best-preserved and probably the most visually imposing monastery of Ladakh. The 12-storey structure belongs to the Gelukpa (yellow hat) order, and it is built in the traditional Tibetan style housing 10 shrines, one containing a 15 meters tall statue of Maitreya Buddha in the seating posture. From the roof terrific view of the Indus valley and the surrounding mountain ranges.
Tiksey Gompa |
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An iron bridge allows to cross the Indus in correspondence of the Stagna gompa (sTag-sNa) that literally means 'tiger's nose'. Built on 1580 Stakna gompa belongs to the Drukpa order. On entering the central courtyard, one comes across the Dukhang, the left wall is adorned with new paintings of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha) and Amchi (the Medical Buddha).
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Stakna Gompa
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At the big crossroad at Karu there is the deviation for the Sakti valley. Soon on the left the beautiful Chemrey Gompa. At the crossroad to the left we reach Tak Tok Gompa, while to the right we continue for the Pangkong lake. Situated in Sakti Village the picturesque old monastery of Thak Thok (Taktog Tagthog) has much more charm than the new one built on the flat valley bottom. Tak Thok belongs to the esoteric Nying-ma-pa sect, also known as the Old Order, probably it is the only Gompa in Ladakh that follows this order. To the left of the courtyard is the cave chapel believed to the place where Padme Sambhava lived and meditated for three years.
Tak Tok Gompa |
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Deviation for Hemis. Following an up-hill road with hairpin curves we reach the Hemis Gompa (1620) the biggest of the valley. Built at the foot of a gorge near the meditation cave of yogi Gyalwa Kodtsangapa. The gompa has the largest thanka (scroll painting in silk or brocade) in Ladakh which is unfurled only once in 12 years.
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Hemis Gompa
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