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Catania

A Baroque Itinerary

Sumptuous and richly decorated churches and palaces are the distinctive character of the south-eastern Sicily. After the earthquake of 1693 that destroyed completely cities like Catania, Noto, Modica, Ragusa the reconstruction architects were inspired by the masterpieces of the Roman Baroque, giving prominence to exuberance of shapes, volumes and the peculiarity of the decoration subjects. It is considered an original baroque, commonly named 'Barocco della Val di Noto' the geographical and chronological and architectural homogeneity of eight towns in south-eastern Sicily: Caltagirone, Militello Val di Catania, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli are now declared World Heritage by the UNESCO. Distinctive characteristic of the various cities is though the construction material and this is particularly relevant for the grey baroque-darkness of Catania quite different from the bright honey color of Noto. Catania is the Etna's town with a special dark color that characterizes monuments, houses, and main doorways, often realized with lava stone. The 1693 earthquake obliged to rebuild almost entirely the town, that acquired a geometric unitary plan. At its core are the outstanding Piazza del Duomo and the Via dei Crociferi, together with the nearby Badia di Sant’Agata, the Collegiata, Benedictine monastery, and Palazzo Biscari.

Palazzo Biscari

large aristocratic palace with a lavishly decorated facade

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The Piazza Duomo (main square) was planned from one of the most famous architects of the xviii century, G. B. Vaccarini. His is in fact the Fountain of the Elephant, with the homonymous composition from Bernini in Rome. From the same architect, the Cathedral, rebuilt, after the earthquake, on the former Norman plan. The xviii century Badia di Sant'Agata, at the left flank of the Cathedral, other example of the architecture of Vaccarini.

Badia di Sant'Agata

beautiful example of Vaccarini architecture

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Via Etnea crossing the entire city is flanked by palaces with baroque façades like the harmonious square of the University, the Collegiata Church, or Basilica of Santa Maria dell'Elemosina, with a marvellous baroque façade, the famous cross road called ‘i quattro canti’ (the four corners) with San Demetrio palace.

Collegiata Church

with a marvellous baroque façade

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But Via dei Crociferi is the best example of baroque Catania. It is straight, and over 300 m. long; connecting the archway of the Benedictine Monastery to the Baroque gateway of the princely Villa Cerami at the other end, to the north. In ancient times it was already the centre of city life but it is after the earthquake reconstruction that it became the monumental symbol of monastic orders power. It is really spectacular thanks to the façades and flights of steps of the churches surrounded by wrought iron handrails. On the southern end the church of San Francesco d’Assisi all'Immacolata and the close by arch of San Benedetto, linking the Badia Grande and the Badia Piccola. Soon after the majestic church of San Benedetto, with its beautiful wooden door, situated on top of a flight of steps, renovated with neoclassic style, with semi-columns added on the limestone façade. The interior is spectacular: the stairs lead first to the vestibule decorated with statues and a multicoloured marble floor, and then to the nave with refined stucco works. The church of San Francesco Borgia, or Jesuit Church with its baroque prospect surmounted by a dome, a double-ramp monumental stairway leads to the two order façade, with twin columns. A Jesuit college is housed in its remarkable cloister, divided into four yards, one of which made by Vaccarini. Opposite stands the church of San Giuliano (Vaccarini?) one of the most important examples of local baroque, the convex façade reminds the Roman perspective experiments of Borromini, the dome is surrounded by a loggia. Crossing via San Giuliano, we find the monastery and the church of San Camillo dei Padri Crociferi that gives the name to the street. The street ends with the portal of Villa Cerami, this building was the marvellous residence of prince Rosso di Cerami, erected in a place overlooking the present city and built with a refined baroque style.

Via Crociferi

the best example of baroque Catania

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In the province of Catania besides the other UNESCO cities of Caltagirone, Militello Val di Catania, we should remind the beautiful Grammichele church and the other examples of the dark Baroque that can be found at Acireale with its magnificent San Sebastiano Cathedral.

Grammichele

the baroque church

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  - Sicily - Art and Architecture
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Palazzo Biscari

Badia di Sant'Agata

Collegiata Church

Via Crociferi

Grammichele

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