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Monuments of Kathmandu valley

Pashupatinath - Home of the Great God Shiva

Like Svayambhunath for the Buddhists, Pashupatinath is a major Shivaite Hindus pilgrimage site, one of the great thirtas of Nepal and the most prestigious cremation ground in the country.
Located in Deopatan, a small town now a suburb of Kathmandu, the big complex of Pashupatinath lies on both sides of the sacred Bagmati river among shikharas, a moltitude of minor shrines and ghats for ritual bathing and cremation. The area is included in the list of UNESCO world cultural heritage.

Pashupatinath

major Shivaite Hindus pilgrimage site

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Pashupati Mandir
Devotees enter the shrine from the West Gate through lines of beggars, sellers of flowers, powdered dyes and other puja accessories. The temple is in the middle of a courtyard which entrance is reserved only for Hindus and Buddhists. Visible from the outside the giant gilt monolithic sculpture of nandi and glimpses of the main pagoda dedicated to Pashupati, the benevolent form of Shiva as the Lord of all the living beings, the guardian deity of Nepal.
The pagoda, prototype of all the Nepalese pagoda temples, has a double copper roof and four side doors covered with gold and silver sheets. Inside there is a chaturmukha lingam with four faces one for each direction plus an invisible fifth one on the top. As it is seen today the temple is the result of reconstruction made during the Malla period and the extensive renovations of the 1967.

Pashupatinath

The pagoda, prototype of all the Nepalese pagoda temples

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The west bank
On the north side from the temple a long series of steps climb the Kailash Hill, from here the non Hindu tourists can have glimpses of the inside. From the eastern gate a flight of stairs descends to the Bagmati River at the Aryaghat, the sacred cremation platforms reserved to the royal family and other prestigious people. Around the main temple are pilgrims various dharmsala.
Between the two bridges that cross the river stands the Bachhareshwari (Kali) temple, a small two roofs pagoda with erotic scenes. Next to it stands a newish ten-foot terracotta frieze of Ananta Narayan.
Walking south along the river bank, we pass by the Ram Ghat, the burning places used by all castes. Further south a stone Buddha stele (vi c.) stands half-buried in the ground.
The southernmost courtyard of the complex is in a poor state of conservation, inside the oval white stucco Raj Rajeshwari temple, the small pagoda temple of Nawa Durga with brightly coloured roof struts and some other nepali buildings in various state of conservation.

Pashupatinath

cremation platforms on the Bagmati River banks

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Mrigasthali hill
Having crossed the river, a stairway climbs the Mrigasthali hill full of monkeys, ‘photo-me’ sadhus and tourists. On a platform above the ghats, there are eleven shivalaya (linga shelters) funerary monuments of sikkara design with a bell shaped dome. From here a tortuous path leads further north to Surya Ghat, here several caves in the rock are still inhabited by yogis.
At the top of the main stairway there is literally a forest of shivalaya with stone inscriptions, trisul and statues of nandi. The white shikhara of Gorakhnath temple stands out from the others.
Now the path goes down to the other side of the hill, reaching Ghujeshwari Mandir (Ghuyeshwari) a goddess of the shakta tradition. The temple cannot be seen from the outside apart from the gilded snakes above its roof.

Pashupatinath

facing the main temple the Mrigasthali hill is literally covered by funerary monuments, stone inscriptions and statues

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Related Pages
- Architecture of Kathmandu Valley
- World Heritage Sites In Nepal

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