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the first temple-pyramid in Cambodia |
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The first Khmer capital, Hariharalaya was established at the beginning of the ix c. in the Roluos area. It was one of the three capitals founded by the king Jayavarman II, the founder of the Khmer dynasty. During the ix c. the successor of Jayavarman II, king Indravarman, built the Bakong pyramid, the main monument of the Roluos group and the first major Angkorian wonder.
This “temple-mountain” in its pyramidal form is the first structure of its type in Cambodia, modelled on Borobudur in Java. Of all the temples on stepped terraces, Bakong is perhaps the one which most closely responds to the idea of the cosmic Mount Meru on five levels, corresponding, from bottom to top respectively, to the world of the Nagas, the Garudas, the Rakshasas, the Yakshas, and then to the Maharajas of the four cardinal points with their court.
Bakong |
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The temple compound is surrounded by a large moat, with steps descending to the water. The moat is crossed by a long causeway characterised by enormous nagas with massive seven headed terminal motifs whose bodies rest on the bare ground.
The second enclosure is defined by a laterite wall. Under the shade of large trees just to the north stands a modern pagoda and various buildings of the local monks. Another low laterite wall forms the first enclosure, the entrance gopura is completely rased to the ground.
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Bakong
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To either side of the eastern entrance, the remains rased to ground of two long rooms, then two longer buildings in ruins preceded by the ruins of two other buildings.
Eight brick towers are placed around the base of the pyramid, probably dedicated to male and female ancestors of the king, the eastern set incorporates male figures on exterior niches, and the western ones have females. The two pyramids on the east front are completely in ruins. These ancillary sanctuaries are embellished with guarding lions, sandstone false door frames and colonnettes and sandstone lintels amongst the finest to be found in the Khmer art.
Bakong |
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In a more human scale than the usual “stairway to heaven” this five tiers pyramid is almost square with four axial stairways complemented at the base with an unusual building, the one on the northern side has been entirely reconstructed, and the remains of a Nandin statue (the sacred bull). The corners of the three lower tiers of the pyramid are marked by badly ruined monolithic elephants. The fourth tier is lined with 12 small sandstone “prasats”.
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Bakong
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The central sanctuary, contrary to what is found in other pyramid temples, is visible from each level. Reconstructed with the method of anastylosis the central tower, fifteen metres in height, has four upper tiers lined with numerous standing stones and a lotus crown. It is decorated with devatas and sculpeted frontons - 'Dancing Shiva' to the east, 'Churning of the Ocean' to the south, 'Reclining Vishnou' to the west and, to the north, Lakshmana trapped by the million snakes of Indrajit.
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